The queen of bling, the master of overstated kitsch, the head mistress of sartorial humour... Donatella Versace is all of them and much much more. Walking into the Versace castle after a day of Milan shows, we knew what to expect, but everyone was taken aback by how much Versace let itself loose and had fun on the catwalk. Donatella started out smart, showing a pinstriped suit, but when looking closer one saw that the stripes had been modified and the space between them differed all over the jacket. Early on the rainbow palette of colours started to creep out... a thin multi-coloured turtleneck top, a red suit with a pink top underneath... all the primary colours came out to play.
If there was one theme it was the 50s rockabilly aesthetic running through many of the pieces; jean jackets, pocket chains, quiffs, raw denim pieces etc. Some of the jackets even had yellow, green and pink fur collars, a slight glam element to the proceedings. A flower camouflage appeared, eventually even showing up on M65 jackets and army cargo trousers. Towards the end, more and more sheer and see-through tops came out, often drowned in Versace logos and gold jewellery... just the way we wanted and needed it!
Dazed Digital: What was your starting point?
Donatella Versace: I was inspired by military clothes... the print, the accessories!
DD: But there was a flower power theme.... which is the opposite of army and military!
Donatella Versace: Actually, the boy who wore that is a soldier in the army himself which makes it even more fun...
DD: What influcenced the flower power camo?
Donatella Versace: A Korean artist who showed at the Venice Biennale.
DD: Do you have a fave piece in the collection?
Donatella Versace: The first piece, the pinstriped suit and the denim looks!