Iceberg Menswear A/W12

Inspired by Charlie Chaplin, Pablo Gerani updated Iceberg's signature grey knits with felted checks, suspenders and pork pie hats, injecting modern smartness into men's daily wardrobes

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Paolo Gerani's Iceberg is famous for its grey knitwear. That might not sound exciting but the truth of the matter is that, although showing at an unkindly early morning hour, Iceberg makes that sartorial combination look good. There's a modern smartness to it. For Autumn Winter 2012 that contemporary feeling was challenged by suspenders, bow ties and pork pie hats... but, even though heavily influenced by the 1930s,  Gerani still made his accessorised grey wool suits fit 21st century standards. 

Nothing says everyday wardrobe as grey knitwear. It epitomises what men wear on a daily basis; functional, warm, easy to match and equally casual and smart. What Iceberg does well is updating that look every season and playing around with the basic idea of the garment. This season, for example, we saw gold and silver lurex details on the knits, plus a few that came out as coats.

The tailoring was casual, as perfectly demonstrated by Gerani's puffa suit jacket. To the sound of a live band with drums and stings, slim herringbone suits, blue leather jackets, check pea coats and heavy knits (in orange as well as grey) paraded down the catwalk. Paolo Gerani's Iceberg ensured that there will be another batch of wearable yet stylish knits available for next winter as well...

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point?
Paolo Gerani:
We looked at the elegance of Charlie Chaplin, the irony of him. He talked about modernity back in the 30s but its a term we use whatever epoch we are referring to... the 1930s, 2012 or 2050. In the end we worked a lot with our knitwear. Some of the pieces you've seen are made with a manufacturing process used maybe 50 years ago...

DD: What techniques are they?
Paolo Gerani:
It's called felted, it's when you put two fabrics together, it's an old technique that is particular to Italy.

DD: There were a few pieces where the checks seemed to disappear and change in the fabric...
Paolo Gerani:
Yes, that are the felted pieces!

DD: You mention Chaplin but the suspenders, hats and slim trousers can also be a nod towards British subcultures...
Paolo Gerani:
Yeah of course! We have tried to bring a few silhouettes from that as well. Chaplin was only an original idea, an inspiration, not something to copy.

DD: A piece that stands out and sums up the collection?
Paolo Gerani:
The green check parka you mentioned and the knitwear jackets. Knitwear isn't only an important Iceberg garment but also important in how we dress, it's warm, comfortable and sporty, which is what Iceberg is all about! 

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