Trussardi Menswear A/W12

Influenced by rally driver Jackie Stewart, Umit Benan Sahin sent out 1970s playboys in flat caps, fur collared jackets and flared trousers

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Umit Benan Sahin might have just taken his second step forward through his sophomore Trussardi collection but he went back in time when putting it together. Or perhaps what we actually saw was Trussardi A/W72? His main influence was rally driver Jackie Stewart but it appears any 1970s playboy would have done the trick, as long as he was stylish of course. Because that's exactly how one would describe the latest Trussardi offering. Suede suits, flap caps, coats with fur collars, driving gloves, flared trousers, double-breasted jackets, leather trench coats.

The list goes on, Benan did it all. He even accessorised a few models with champagne bottles (which I then saw them drink from backstage, naturally) and put yellow-glassed aviator sunnies á la Hunter S. Thompson on a few of them. A few pieces, like the knitted roll neck underneath a waistcoat and the twinned brown leather bomber stood out, but it was the whole show, its attitude plus a few of the model's sideburns that made this one of the Milan highlights. 

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point? 
Umit Benan:
I looked at Jackie Stewart, the F1 champion from the 70s. He was a style icon, as much off as on the track!

DD: How did you pair that with Trussardi and its heritage?
Umit Benan:
I of course looked very closely at the Trussardi archives. For me it's about the gloves. Trussardi has always been making driving gloves, they feel very aggressive and masculine to me, and they fitted perfectly with the Jackie Stewart story.

DD: So the fit was perfect...
Umit Benan:
I think so, yes. The elegance of Trussardi and the glamour of a true champion. I imagined him having just won a race, putting his helmet in a big leather bag and getting dressed in a suit to celebrate! 

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