Dolce & Gabbana Menswear A/W12

The Italian super duo served an opera of sartorial excess for the Autumn Winter season

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As Pavarotti bellowed on the soundtrack, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana returned to their Sicilian roots and delivered a captivating dream of sartorial historicism that spanned generations of their family. A long black cape (or rather tistera as they are known in the pair's native Sicily) opened the show and was based on an original design created by Gabbana's tailor father. Following the recent discontinuing of D&G one got the sense that the design duo let loose with a display of couture like crafted opulence.

With an abundance of gold bullion embroidery, well cut rich velvet smoking jackets, silk pyjamas and a flurry of y-front exposed limbs, it was a show of excess. Of course it was decadent at times but that is how it always should be with Dolce & Gabbana. However, this was not a wardrobe of baroque costume. The tailoring was slim and well cut, whilst the real highlight of the show was its finale, a true celebration of the overcoat in a number of incarnations and thrown over either tweed, velvet or denim.

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