Dazed Overdose Tues 30th Sept: Katie Shillingford

A Comme des Garcons universe dominated day ending in cake and drinks at Jeremy Scott.

Fashion Overdose
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Unfortunately Balenciaga did not bestow me a ticket but Karen Langley went to represent the team much to my extreme jealousy. I waited patiently with the rest of the hapless folk who turned up to Junya on time. Although pushed back very late by Balenciaga, Watanabe was a great first show of the day. Again Kamo Katsuya’s miracle headwear stole the show with bundles of dried flowers sprigging in all directions from underneath headscarves-each one a new creation. The collection had an African inspiration and tweeting birds and native African songs set the uplifting mood in the soundtrack. Colourful batik prints and patch-worked denim in floor length skirts were in abundance and I was amused by the cheeky leopard print thongs poking out of skirts at the end of the collection.

We hurried back to Carrousel de Louvre to make Tsumori Chisato but could only manage to sneak in at the back to see the girl’s heads. There was another race against time to get to Tao but this time we made it. The collection took a military direction with bearskin hats and gold buttoned, cropped military jackets and blouses leading the way. Navy and white sailor stripes were added into the mix for a Nautical twist in shorts, cropped trousers and jackets. Bowler hats were elongated and toward the end of the show a floral section introduced itself in military uniforms. Red painted lips, knee high socks with tassels and patent gold and silver chunky doll shoes finished all of the looks.

The next show was Issey Miyake whose vast catwalk was divided by moving, coloured rope curtains that split the catwalk into paths for the models to follow and a fawny, autumnal colour palette transformed into a rainbow of colours for the finale. A short walk away, in the Tuileries, Sophia Kokosalaki’s girls all had ramekin pot sized hats perched on their heads and the hair was scraped back into these. Expensive golds and rich orange and blues gave the collection a Egyptian/harem feel as did the music - perhaps inspired by Kokosalaki’s Greek heritage. My favourite girl, Karlie Kloss embodied this exotic, opulent mood flawlessly - she is amazing and only 16!

Nearing the end of the day we had Comme des Garcons, Jean Paul Gaultier and Jeremy Scott still to go. Comme was an exciting, fast paced show where towering white afros appeared out of the blackness as camera bulbs flashed at the end of the catwalk. The collection comprised of what looked like cut up footballs making up the structures but with the same frill trimming as last season and lots of black and clear plastic. JPG began with a contemporary ballet troop who swirled down the catwalk and behind them Coco Rocha led the girls in swimwear. Colours ranged from fuschia and limes in gowns to fleshy underwear tattooed in true Gaultier form.

Jeremy Scott was as fun, colourful and garish as usual with OTT Marie Antoinette hair and make-up and cheekily posing/winking models. The highlight was Anne V as a blushing bride who stormed down the catwalk to ‘Like a Virgin’! The catwalk turned into a club so we stayed for a couple of drinks but tired feet gave in and we were home to bed before 12.
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