Dazed Overdose Tues 30th Sept: Katie Shillingford
Published 29 months ago
A Comme des Garcons universe dominated day ending in cake and drinks at Jeremy Scott.
- Text by Katie Shillingford
Unfortunately
Balenciaga did not bestow me a ticket but Karen Langley went to
represent the team much to my extreme jealousy. I waited patiently with
the rest of the hapless folk who turned up to Junya on time. Although
pushed back very late by Balenciaga, Watanabe was a great first show of
the day. Again Kamo Katsuya’s miracle headwear stole the show with
bundles of dried flowers sprigging in all directions from underneath
headscarves-each one a new creation. The collection had an African
inspiration and tweeting birds and native African songs set the
uplifting mood in the soundtrack. Colourful batik prints and
patch-worked denim in floor length skirts were in abundance and I was
amused by the cheeky leopard print thongs poking out of skirts at the
end of the collection.
We hurried back to Carrousel de Louvre to make
Tsumori Chisato but could only manage to sneak in at the back to see
the girl’s heads. There was another race against time to get to Tao but
this time we made it. The collection took a military direction with
bearskin hats and gold buttoned, cropped military jackets and blouses
leading the way. Navy and white sailor stripes were added into the mix
for a Nautical twist in shorts, cropped trousers and jackets. Bowler
hats were elongated and toward the end of the show a floral section
introduced itself in military uniforms. Red painted lips, knee high
socks with tassels and patent gold and silver chunky doll shoes
finished all of the looks.
The next show was Issey Miyake whose vast
catwalk was divided by moving, coloured rope curtains that split the
catwalk into paths for the models to follow and a fawny, autumnal
colour palette transformed into a rainbow of colours for the finale. A
short walk away, in the Tuileries, Sophia Kokosalaki’s girls all had
ramekin pot sized hats perched on their heads and the hair was scraped back into
these. Expensive golds and rich orange and blues gave the collection a
Egyptian/harem feel as did the music - perhaps inspired by Kokosalaki’s
Greek heritage. My favourite girl, Karlie Kloss embodied this exotic,
opulent mood flawlessly - she is amazing and only 16!
Nearing the end of
the day we had Comme des Garcons, Jean Paul Gaultier and Jeremy Scott
still to go. Comme was an exciting, fast paced show where towering
white afros appeared out of the blackness as camera bulbs flashed at
the end of the catwalk. The collection comprised of what looked like
cut up footballs making up the structures but with the same frill
trimming as last season and lots of black and clear plastic. JPG began
with a contemporary ballet troop who swirled down the catwalk and
behind them Coco Rocha led the girls in swimwear. Colours ranged from
fuschia and limes in gowns to fleshy underwear tattooed in true
Gaultier form.
Jeremy Scott was as fun, colourful and garish as usual
with OTT Marie Antoinette hair and make-up and cheekily posing/winking
models. The highlight was Anne V as a blushing bride who stormed down
the catwalk to ‘Like a Virgin’! The catwalk turned into a club so we
stayed for a couple of drinks but tired feet gave in and we were home
to bed before 12.
