Stuart Vevers has had a few seasons now to get into the grain of what Loewe is about and he has deduced it down to leathers and silks. That sounds simplistic at first but take a look at the clothing and the technicality and craftsmanship of Loewe are what grab you by the thin one layered leather jackets and skirts with suede inners so that they can be reversed. A print that looked like enlarged houndstooth were actually derived from Spanish tiling, another sign that Vevers' life in Madrid has really impacted on his aesthetic and work.
Instead of mining archives, Vevers articulated the luxury of Loewe by telling a Spanish tale on beautifully sleek suede and ponyskin dresses, cut-out blazers, printed shirts that were mirrored on the enamel in the silver bracelets. Shades of brick, brown, grey and navy reflected a sophistication that is a far cry from the kitschy pinks and oranges of last season. Quite a few shows this season have displayed craft quite ostentatiously. For Loewe, it's an inherent part of their house values and Vevers has exploited that to the max.
Dazed Digital: This was a sleeker collection than the last one - what was the starting point?
Stuart Vevers: There was something about architecture that inspired us all this season. We travelled to the South of Spain. I wanted that exotic and steamy part of Spain to really come through but in a subversive way. For instance we sewed strips of leather on top of chiffon which was playing with transparency and conveys a pulled together woman but with a little bit of an edge. A little bit saucy!
DD: Where did the prints come from?
Stuart Vevers: For the prints we looked at different buildings and cut-outs from the windows but often they came from tile patterns. To me the language for Loewe clothes is in leather and and silk prints and they both come from the heritage of Loewe. The prints should always tell some story of Spain - that's how we make it more unique and us.
DD: Tell us about any new developments in the jewellery?
Stuart Vevers: The jewellery was very strong - very delicate and feminine. We watched the bracelet enamel prints with what they were wearing. With the bags, we were doing going for shapes that were authentic and soft - something that's super Loewe but we covered all the leather with metal to make it a bit cooler.
DD: How important was it to get those leathers thin enough for a S/S season?
Stuart Vevers: It's super important! The first section was about single layered leather so constructed that they're reversible. I showed those first because they demonstrate innovation - mixing the craft of the house with technology which is something I want to push.