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Rozalb de Mura S/S 09

With stockists like twosee, this Romanian designer is gaining momentum with their first London show.

An exciting addition to the schedule last week came from Rozalb De Mura, a Romanian label that launched back in 2006, debuting for the first time in London at the On|Off  event showing alongside Dazed favourite Mark Fast, and Alexander Koutny. Rozalb De Mura was the only label out of the three designers to present a menswear collection. For S/S 09  they opted for a neutral palette, of powder blues and creams and white to work as a blank canvas for them to focus on texture and shape. For instance, the material had been painted to give a stiff, ridged treatment to a usually light floating cotton. Puff ball sleeves and exaggerated trousers made in angelic white and gowns made of hessian fabric, evoked an overall ethnic feel and gave nods to religious monastic outfits. The more gothic and stiff padded shapes and forms that they have experimented with in previous collections were this time replaced with a collection of softer less intrusive silhouettes. A label that has been gaining quite a lot of hype recently, Rozalb de Mura was a nice addition to the fashion week schedule and adds more momentum to the menswear scene in London.