"Sometimes the simplest things are the most effect," mused Rick Owens after his show in reference to the powerful projection of horizontal lights in the set that he termed as the "gateway to heaven." The same thing can be said about his clothes which were somewhat reduced from last season's peaked shouldered puffed up volumes of last season. The volume is still there but almost seems to happen at incidental points - a flailing out hood at the back of a dress, the lower part of a sleeve and in the softly rounded shoulders of a jacket or a dress. The gateway to heaven reference is probably a joke on the part of Owens. His vision can't be that lofty when he refers backstage to a lot of the dresses as beach cover-ups.
Yet upon further probing, papal gowns and stateliness is also something he was edging towards and with that comes an idea of the church of Owens (just as there was a church of Balenciaga earlier in the day when benches broke and the fashion congregation was made to stand). Every Rick Owens show affirms his fan base that probably do worship him in some ways. Beyond the sombre mood, though l;o and behold, there's a bit of colour in this Rick Owens collection with the introduction of a shade of rust as well a final occupation with surface detailing - patch worked leather, woven panels in the back and subtle embroidery that drew lines on the front of cropped tunics - a veritable feast for the church of Rick Owens to pray for.
Dazed Digital: You mentioned you were going for beach coats just then?
Rick Owens: It was all about the beach coats - long beautiful coats that are so light. No one needs a coat in spring and I sometimes hear things like "Who would wear those things? Where would you where that?" but if you have a quiet life by the beach wouldn't be great to have some cover up?
DD: I detected some of the volumes from last season, inspired by couture - were you still looking at those ideas?
Rick Owens: But what was couture inspired by? Medieval volumes and papal mantles and the idea of presentation and pageantry. I was thinking beyond haute couture. It's the volume and proportions that display the head and negates sex. When you present yourself in these voluminous things, it's the opposite of sex. It's restraint and stateliness. That's what I was going for.