Iceberg Womenswear S/S12

Paolo Gerani showed blazers, hand-braided pencil skirt, skinny heels but also mixed in sportswear elements for his Milan show

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Yesterday’s show kicked off with Louise Brooks’s famous profile – in fine glitter weaved into a lose jumper, coupled with a silk midcalf skirt, stilettos and dog collars, both seemingly knit onto the model. If there are three keywords to be had of Iceberg’s collection, those are sporty, sexy and knitted. In a broad range of technique, included braiding and knotting, Paolo Gerani weaved a collection reminiscent of classic women’s power suits – blazers, hand-braided pencil skirt, skinny heels, which he fused with sportswear references: bandeau bras and fluid racer tops poked out skirts and jackets, cocktail dresses were paired with sequined sport jackets, sporty cargo pant were matched with chic, sheer, stripped pattern.  The result, both glam and on the run, pointed to a new kind of sophistication for Iceberg.

Dazed Digital: Can you tell us about your use of materials?
Paolo Gerani: The materials are very feminine, silk, embroided silk, nothing just flat, but with movement  -- and a lot of knitwear which are very important to us, the skirts are all knitted, and so are a majority of elements this season.

DD: Does this mean you are experimenting with new techniques?
Paolo Gerani: Yes, the skirts are handmade with a huge yarn, so all this is very innovative.

DD: What is the philosophy behind this collection?
Paolo Gerani: The philosophy is key to this collection – and becoming more and more precise: we wanted a sportswear feel, yet very feminine. Sensual, but with a touch of masculine.

DD: So this is the direction Iceberg is taking?
Paolo Gerani: Yes, absolutely, that’s us today.

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