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Jil Sander Womenswear S/S12

White nurse uniforms and Picasso-inspired prints dominated Raf Simons' show

Raf Simons’ collection yesterday kicked off with monochrome white dresses seemingly inspired by nurse wear from the 1940s, by its simple cotton and frill-free straight lines. Sticking to the decade, he switched to black dresses, also knee-length, also minimalist, on which he hinted nightwear through discreet diamond brooches clipped to the waist. The initial plainness was complexified with adding a crochet slip on top of it, creating a game of layers and collar poking out. Picasso-like drawing appeared – for a slight Surrealist touch— embroided onto light knits and paired with shorts. 

Darker pattern were declined on tulle skirts, entire dresses and ensembles; yellow organic motifs were explored on knits: think pencil shirt worn with a cropped top and a simple cotton shirt underneath. The shoes mesh patent ankle boots with a short square heel, were a sensation of their own. As for the finale, it consisted of buttoned-up skirt dresses with a wide, wedding-dress-like flare to the floor – the initial nurse getting married surely.