Having previously worked with Kim Jones and E. Tautz, it is Claire Malcolm that has now taken the reigns of traditional English tailor, Hardy Amies. Looking at the church's of Venice for her inspiration this season the collection was, as ever, built around good tailoring without too much embellishment. The Hardy Amies suit is very much centred on the idea that if it is well cut and well executed, you don't need too many bells and whistles to make it stand out. Fits are not slimline as is often the trend currently, as Hardy Amies have been producing suits in a similar style, but updated slightly, since 1937.
The Amies trademark is very much a subtle yet interesting colourway and this season was no different. Three-piece suits were made up in soft Prince of Wales checks, with blues and greys opening the show. Then it was on to short suits, a new addition for the brand but one that was done in a flattering and gentlemanly style. Shorts were not cut too tight or too high, allowing them to be worn at a variety of occasions. Knitwear came in a bit later on, with contrasting panels of honeycomb stitch knit and loose weaved patterns in creams and greys. Diagonal and arrow striped knits were also a strong feature, coming up in crew and V-neck versions.
Contrasting colours and textures were a consistent theme throughout, both in the knitwear and suiting. Sports jackets were done in more of a slimline finish than the full suits, with cinch back buckles. Cotton jackets with satin collars, another nod to the contrasting feel, started what then became a full satin jacket. Double breasted versions were a nod towards the style of today, with bold brass buttons making them stand out against the quieter notions of the rest of the collection.
Photos Adrian Weinbrecht