As the first major show of Milan’s fashion week, and one of Italy’s best known brands worldwide, the pressure must have been considerable for Gucci’s designer Frida Giannini. But the collection was both trim and multi-layered, pointing at a novel, subversive sexiness. Giannini’s woman seemed to lead a double life: one borrowing masculine codes during the day – think black and white suits punctuated by green graphics— and indulging in flapper-girl chic in the evening, hijacking the classical drop waist and fringes with chains and metallic appliqués. Dazed Digital had a chat with Frida Giannini after the show and talked retro bling, Italian bohemia and the 1920s.
Dazed Digital: I see a lot of 1920s references, is that the leading theme for the collection?
Frida Giannini: Yes, the architecture and design of this period was a source of inspiration, as well as high jewelry from the Art Deco period – these surfaces were very shiny, very polished and the reflections of the gold and the silver were an inspiration too. This element carries on throughout the end of the collection. Muses such as Nancy Cunard, Louise Brooks and all these personalities in the 1920, who very unconventional for their time were also key,
DD: What is new this season, what are the zones of experimentation?
Frida Giannini: I experimented a lot with the proportions because I don’t want to be too referential: so there are a lot of low waists with fringes, but with metal and chains. I really wanted to play with the silhouettes, with pants and jackets, a balance between the boyish, daytime attitude and the girlish evening wear.
DD: Does this represent the contemporary Italian woman?
Frida Giannini: I think so, I know many Italian women who are quite bohemian in a way, with a desire to express something different – but there are such women all around the world, so this isn’t about a local reference.