Simone Rocha Womenswear S/S12

Innovative use of plastic, rubber and antique embroidery all featured in the talented young designer's new collection

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With collection after collection hitting the catwalk forged from the overworked ateliers/attics of some of the most promising graduates for years, this season belongs to them. Of these, CSM has undoubtedly dominated these fledgling showcases from Masha Ma, who transported us to the bleakest of landscapes, to Holly Fulton's coveted Mediterranean dream. Now, Simone Rocha, graduating just last year from CSM's inimitable MA course, presents her third effort, this time for S/S12.

From her ongoing inspiration taken from the work of Louise Bourgeois to the bifocal approach to the male and female genus, Rocha, like her fellow graduates has taken inroads into the continued redefinition of modern femininity. Her show this past weekend explored this debate through the unconventional use of materials from sheets of plastic, rubber and even antique embroidery. Developing for herself a new canvas on which to traverse her theories, her textural display of trapping material within material created silhouettes simultaneously fragile and reinforced.

Searing hues of hot pink and scarlet red muddled with soothing shades of green on a backdrop of this coming season's emerging Zeitgeist colour of snowy white. Whilst the philosophy of female and male identity continues to play out, Rocha at least has reached a conclusion of her very own.

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