Known for his ever provocative and forward thinking experiments in knitwear, that have produced some of the most talked about pieces from recent seasons at London Fashion Week, Mark Fast's collection for S/S12 was strong and powerful with additions of sultry and sexy glamour. Off the shoulder loosely woven dresses gave a slouchy feel but were brought together by Fast's technical expertise. Rough organic knits again added that grunge chic but the seemingly free falling aspects of the garments each had their own purpose to play, and were fitted perfectly to accentuate all the right curves of the body.
What started off as full length pieces soon became super short cropped length body con dresses, super sexy and revealing, followed through by more feminine loose knit short sleeve frill layered pieces. Long slits through the leg added that glamorous feeling to the floor length tasseled garments, which moved and jumped as the girls stormed down the runway. Colours were neutral to begin, followed by gold yarns being woven in, reflecting the luxe feel that the designs started. Ornate patterning and woven details highlighted Fast's incredible technical abilty, and gave the aesthetic a feeling of ancient Greek motifs.
After the softer gold came a bold solid yellow, bringing with it a sense of pure fun with frills, layering, tasseling all making regular appearances. As the knitwear departed it was followed up by a series of structured, tailored, printed silk raffia dresses, with bold shoulders and bolder imagery.
Dazed Digital: What were this seasons inspirations?
Mark Fast: This season things were started by a photograph of David Lachapelle, where Jesus is holding a fish and surrounded by graffiti. I wanted to capture that sort of underground culture and the randomness of that image. That's where the toughness and the harder edges came from.
DD: Were you designing for someone?
Mark Fast: I have this image of a woman in a desert looking for something. That's where I was pulling my palette from, bringing in the sand coloured yarns, I was also into the dryness of that idea and even maybe some hallucinations, as if you had been stuck in the desert for days.
DD: Where did the pops of oranges and colour come from?
Mark Fast: That's where the hallucinations come into it. Its like she is having swirling colours in front of her eyes, or that it is inspire by that complete random aspect of hallucinations, where things make sense but at the same time there is no real reason for them to.
DD: What about the black you brought in at the end?
Mark Fast: It was really beach wear based actually, which is an interesting thing to do in black. It was something that came much later in the day and after having a much lighter pallete I really just wanted to fix on a completely dfferent tone and see where that took us.