Pringle Womenswear S/S12

New creative director Alistair Carr reworked the British label's classics and offered brightly coloured knits and interesting ropework detailing

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Having taken the helm of the Pringle Womenswear line as Design Director back in March, this is the first full collection for Alastair Carr, who has worked previously at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière, Chloe and Cacharel. Firmly getting hold of the luxurious British knitwear label, Carr has looked first to their archives for his inspiration, referencing the heritage of the Pringle but updating his finds for a modern sophisticated womans wardrobe. The first looks took the classic Pringle intarsia and gave it an injection of colour, producing it in vivid yellows, blues and reds against a soft grey background, the combination being used on short dresses, sleeveless cardigans and back button tops.

A number of the knitwear pieces also featured a ropework graphic, contrasting the geometrics of the intarsia. The ropework was also seen on a number of cotton and silk blouses, a super fine long sleeve knit and again on the back buttoning tops. As the show progressed layers began to be added, looser blouses over the more form fitting knitwear and then into much more minimal garments. Structured and tailored dresses with contrasting textures, panels and colour blocks were a firm example of a new direction for Carr's Pringle.

Dazed Digital: How did you look to update the heritage of Pringle?
Alastair Carr:
I started in the archive to look at the different techniques as I have only just started doing knitwear. The main things were the intarsia which started the show, these kind of abstract argyle pieces, which was all done by hand. Normally intarsia is flat so we were looking at how to make that 3D, and then the jacquard which came through second in the really textured dresses.

DD: Was there a particular era you were looking at from the archive?
Alastair Carr: The 60s, but not to make it retro. I really didn't want to have something that seemed to much in the past. Obviously with Pringle the heritage of the company is so important, and it is what our customers know, but at the same time it was incredibly important to me to bring that forward for a modern woman.

DD: How did you go about updating things?
Alastair Carr: I was really just thinking about the woman that I have in my head who wears these pieces, and the woman that I want to speak to, the woman I want to wear it. I was in love with the amazing textures from the 60s but the woman I had in mind wouldn't wear anything 60s, so it was how to twist it and make it relevant. It was important to make it easy as well, everyone wears knitwear so I wanted it to be accessible.

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