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MAN S/S 09

Dazed Digital goes backstage at the MAN S/S 09 show to film Christopher Shannon, Hans Madsen, James Long and Topshop Design present their collections.

The penultimate event of London fashion week, MAN was on Friday, once again  they came up with the goods, some of the most exciting new menswear talents all shown in one room.

Starting off with tongue in cheek street wear and label mania from MAN's newest addition Chris Shannon, a recent Central Saint Martins MA graduate Chris's collection featured a sporty mix of collaborations with Reebok and Eastpak and a nostalgic 1980's influenced sportswear designs. Jogging bottoms with matching sweatshirts formed the basis of a tight collection of street wear basics that included polished shell suit jackets, puffa jackets and shiny athletic shorts. Vests worn under shell suit zip jackets and printed label jeans were reminiscent of the early 90s' Moschino clad chavs who hung outside chip shops giving a nice catwalk return for sporty chav chic.

Next up came knitwear mastermind Hans Madsen's second MAN outing, sticking to his familiar shapes and knitwear signature based on traditional Danish patterns, accented by jersey layering and simple canvas shoes. Hans kept to what he knows best and stayed true to his patriotic inspiration, the final look of yeti puff in white fur in the shape of a jumper was a particular favorite. All in all restrained it was Scandiavian design at its best, understated and cognitive yet still daring.

Next came an exciting change of direction from James Long, with the show also being his second outing, the pressure was on to up the stakes even more this time around. Afterall, how can you top something that gained so much attention the first time around? James successfully left behind the architectural shapes and harnessing he has become known for and instead opted for bohemia, macramé knits made out of leather, tulle tops with silver embroidery and ethnic shorts wrapped into skirts, all combined to make a veritable feast of menswear decadence. It was a brave move for a London designer to step away so early from a style he gained notoriety for but James has achieved this, with an effortlessly chic collection that fits in perfectly with the feminine trends in menswear for S/S 09.

And for the finalie, Topman Design, never to be upstaged by its younger accomplices, began their S/S 09 collection with their version of paratroopers stomping down the catwalk parading in bright acidic block colors, giving a salute to the 2008 Olympics, then continuing on with the physical theme with a Tour de France inspired collection of sporty cycling wear. From there, the collection peddled through to Manchester’s Hacienda in the late1980's with stretchy t-shirts and graphic stripe printed wind breaker jackets and plastic white numbers worn around the models necks imitating clubbers' glow sticks and whistles. A clever layering of sheer tees and shirts came into play, adorned with pastel graphic shapes. To finish, bursts of bright fuchsia were contrasted with some minimal black suiting that were worn by all the best boys of the season.

Pierre Debuscherre created films for each designer.

Christopher Shannon S/S 09

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Hans Madsen S/S 09

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James Long S/S 09

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Topman Design S/S 09

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