One of New York's favourite nights is the Marc Jacobs night. It always promises a spectacle and sense of drama and history, giving every viewer the perspective of romance that fashion's meant to provide. Having the show rescheduled to the last night of the week was a way to end on a high note; and was bound to put a nice cap on the last few days of this season's aesthetic conversation. With the oscillating effect of Marc Jacobs’ design sense as well, you never quite know what you're in for until the curtain draws and the show begins.
Tonight opened up on girls draped over bar chairs, backlit by stage lights in a choreographed line. With their hair swept up in kerchiefs and cloches, swinging bowling bag purses and ponyskin buckets, the girls were traveling light and fast on their stocking filled heels. Where last season's latex was restrictive and prim, there was a flossy luminescence and fluidity in this collection that came out in the cellophane and sparkling lamé chiffon headbands. Mashup is a word that comes from the internet and has floated around a lot through the week in New York, mostly in reference to a mix of prints of colours that seem discordant being pushed together in the small space of an outfit. In this collection, however, the fusion not only occurred in the many decades of style references that came together (50s Doo Wop, 60s Grease Girl, 40s Flapper) but with the futuristic materials they were spun out of; like tromp l'oeil texture prints on polyester, air-tex organza or silicone fringe dresses. There was a messiness and fervent mashing of surfaces that all washed together in pastel waves of eyelets, laser-cut florals and printed gingham, but a softness was always present, and a looseness not only in cut but in styling that afforded a shimmering, ruffled skirt to wear well with a cowboy boot and a silk slip top. Easy and fun, but with an eye on Feeling the future.
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