Olivier Theysken's collaboration with Theory is only a few seasons old but he's already managed to establish a new look for himself and a great couple of seasons for Theory. As it turned out, the Spring Summer 2012 version won't change that. There was an endless array of shimmering and sparkling pieces on the catwalk as Theory showed in a 22nd street warehouse, off 10th Avenue. Shorts and trousers had high waists, and many of the cropped jackets came in tweed. The predominate bottom half style was cargo trousers, many in brown or black leather. But it was the shimmering leather or shiny embroidered stones that gave the collection character. As usual, many of the tops and jackets had Theysken's trademark V-cut in the neck. Just before the the finale (a grey ballgown) we also saw a superbly loose blue linen play suit that perfectly stood out against the other rather harder and tougher pieces.