An aviation theme permeated the new collection with bomber jackets, white ponchos and hooded anoraks
A foggy, abandoned storefront off Canal Street was the setting for Tim Hamilton's S/S 2012 presentation in New York. Hamilton continued his work with artist collaborations this season by teaming up with multimedia conceptual artist/sculptor/writer Seth Price. The result was a series of subversive, Alt-Aviation pieces: Officially Slick punk kids that either worked for or had broken into the Federal Reserve and were ready to parachute off the roof. White glitter-poly jumpsuits, anoraks and ponchos layered over black leather jackets and soft zip hoodies made a reductive palette only occasionally broken by the bureaucratic blue of the FDIC logo. The line kept to its everlasting classic quality that makes each piece look like something you want to wear everyday, and - having worked for the Big Basics like Gap and J Crew - he knows that for anything worth wearing the devil is in the details.
Dazed Digital: How was it bringing an artist in again to this process?
Tim Hamilton: I've worked in different mediums with it. With Collier [Shorr] it was really about making films and being more visual in the photos and films. With Ross [Bleckner] it was taking his prints and printing them on jackets and sweaters. With Seth, he really got involved - he really wanted to see the process, he wanted to look at the patterns, look at the sketches, look at the details and he really had a lot of input.
DD: How did you start working with him?
Tim Hamilton: What drew me to his work was he did a lot of aviation style jackets that were vaccuum sealed in his paintings and then were coated with a silver glaze. There's also something about working with artists that are in your age group where you have the same reference points. We wanted to work together in a series so he said 'Well I'm known for the bomber jacket, why don't we start with that.'
DD: There's a very strong aviation theme...
Tim Hamilton: We looked at a lot of historic aviation moments and referenced how it was transcended into different decades. How the bomber jacket was worn in the 80s to how it was worn in the 90s until now, so it crosses every sort of timeline. We also did a collaboration with Cutler and Gross on the eyewear, which we're going to announce soon, but the aviator glasses are with them.
DD: Was it mostly a conceptual design collaboration?
Tim Hamilton: Yeah, but on every level...he was very involved in the fitting, the fabric choice, the lining, he did all these bank logo prints, which he wants you to interpret any way you want - you can think it's a sign of the times or just think it's a cool graphic. He also did the installation of the two films, the Reagan Assassination videos which don't really have an ingredient in what we're doing but he just loves the chaos in it. There's some great outerwear pieces that I kind of wish we'd referenced but we didn't.
Photos by Autumn Swisher