Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S12: Henrik Vibskov

The Danish designer presents a visually stimulating line of graphic prints against a backdrop of huge immersive installations

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Henrik Vibskov always manages to impress his audience by giant installations, graphic prints, imaginative accessories and otherworldly sounds. This time around he was true to his style and presented a collection on a rotating catwalk with models opening and closing doors almost in a working class factory environment which provoked a feeling of paranoia or you might just say Panopticon.

Dazed Digital: Where does your inspiration come from for this collection.

Henrik Vibskov: We always look in different directions. Music, art, life, whatever. If we're talking about this season, S/S12, we looked at workwear, 19th century artisans, like Steve McQueen. I like the idea of putting many ideas into a collection.  It gives a lot of freedom to the clothes and to the way we work.  We're referring to this concept, panopticon, a lot too.  It forms the basis for the show.  The word comes from Greek origin but was used by a philosopher in the late 17th century.  It's the idea of all-seeing.  I worked with 4 projects at the same time, I tried to put panopticon into everything, a dutch exhibition with a panopticon room - 60 students at Central Saint Martins worked under a brief called the panopticon - my own collection is called panopticon - I bike pass a building every day called the panopticon etc. So I created my own panopticon noia.
 
DD: How have you grown since your last collection.
Henrik Vibskov: No, I stopped growing when I was 15.  I'm 197 cm. So I haven't grown since, hehe.
But Things are different from last season. I have a baby, a little girl. Maybe that has changed things in the way I design. But you might have to ask my colleagues if it's made a difference. I don't think I see a change maybe as much as they can.  
 
DD: Does CFW give you a good platform for International sales.
Henrik Vibskov: Yeah, of course. It's my home. It's where (the label) it began. I've been really lucky to have a lot of support locally since the start so I guess that's been an easy platform for going somewhere bigger. But we started out in Paris a few years before, and have showrooms in New York, Milan and Japan, so these cities are just as much a platform for us as Copenhagen.
 
DD: Tell me about the location and set up of the show. (how do they tell the story of your collection).
Henrik Vibskov: Totally top secret.  Kidding. It took us a while to find the right space and there were a few places we were looking at for the show in Copenhagen. it's a nice little cosy space in the open air garden  that should give a good feeling. It's different to how we showed in Paris. We were at lycée turgot, which we've used before. But Paris is a totally different atmosphere to Copenhagen. There's always a big crowd here in Copenhagen though. A lot of friends and family.
 
DD: What impact would you like to give.
Henrik Vibskov: I don't know. But I've just had a little girl and I'd like to hope that I'm an impact on her life. For the better. 

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