Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S12: Gaia Brandt

The Central Saint Martins graduate yesterday presented her sombre hand-made knitwear collection, referencing Nordic and Dada influences

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The Nordic mood of Gaia Brandt, and the setting at Copenhagen's Royal Academy of Music, clearly demonstrated her ability to capture an audience and the allure from her London education at Central Saint Martins. This was present in her sombre collection of sky blues, T-shirt applications and undercut wigs. Her background as a tailor was evident in the workmanship and clean lines of her knitwear that takes the observer on a journey to Dada world. Brandt is one of those designers who does not mass-produce - instead she prefers  to keep it simple by making everything by hand, which to some extend is very Scandinavian. 

Dazed Digital: What kind of background do you have?
Gaia Brandt:
I started in 1997 as a tailor after that, I went to Central Saint Martins and graduated in 2006 from the fashion with Knitwear course. 

DD: When did you decide to set up your own label?
Gaia Brandt:
In 2009...

DD: Where does your inspiration come from for this collection?
Gaia Brandt:
My inspiration is based on Vilhelm Hammershøi's interior paintings, which have many graphic elements such as chairs and doors. His blue color scheme, and the quiet atmosphere in his paintings. I also picked some references to the German Dada artist Kurt Schwitters (1887-1948) and his graphic collages, which are known as MERZ. The result of this, is a collection of loose-gown silhouettes with hand-sewn letters applied, that have cut out from second hand t-shirts.

DD: You mention that the collection is handmade, how do you go about producing that?
Gaia Brandt:
Super hard work and a collection that partly consists of one-off pieces.

DD: Tell me about the theme of the show?
Gaia Brandt:
Dark mood, but light and pastel colour scheme (lots of light blue), shades of blue, surreal, mix of feminine and boyish charm, ambiguous and beautiful.

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