Yang Li (London, UK)
Published 29 months ago
From Beijing to Perth to London with this young designer.
- Text by Danielle Marsland
Fashion designer Yang Li has an aura of ‘worldliness’ about him. Quite literally: born in Beijing, raised in Western Australia, based in London, and today speaking to me from Tokyo: here’s a kid who's seen it all.
Yang’s designs launched in the isolated city of Perth, before taking off halfway across the galaxy and turning left at London: a journey that’s made the 20 year old firm in his belief that “You can always find a way to make everything relate somehow”.
Yang’s since landed himself in classes at the cut-throat Central St Martins. Although if you happen to catch him at night, it’s likely to be on a pushbike: “You get to see so much of London that you don’t see normally,” reflects Yang of his adventures.
With two collections under his successful Cloth label already under his belt, you get the feeling ‘graduation day’ is but a mere formality.
www.clothlabel.com.au/yang
cloth.label@gmail.com
Where are you based?
It's a bit of a cliché, but I’m based in Shoreditch, East London. I share a flat with four other “creatives”.
How long have you been designing for?
3 years
Did you always want to design?
I actually always wanted to be a basketball player: I was a big Michael Jordan fan, growing up. There comes a time when you decide you want to invest yourself in something, and get really great at something. For me, the excitement and challenge of design made it a natural choice (plus, I was never really a natural at the basketball thing). So when I was 18, I decided to put all my eggs in the ‘fashion designer’ basket. So far, so good!
Would you describe your style as minimalist or naturalist?
I find it that no matter what I try to do, there is always a minimalist influence: whether consciously or subconsciously. I do like a sense of the natural: it makes things relate to the body easier. Of late, I’m obsessed with futurism: as a naturalist belief in progression (as opposed to the minimalist art movement).
Is it important to you that fashion places emphasis on the incorporation of art into the product?
Clothes should be seen as a product, and if that product is well designed, and well made, it will evoke emotion, and atmosphere – at which point, it becomes art. So I guess a great product sometimes unintentionally comes to stand as art.
Where is the beginning for you?
Usually I find a theme and stick with it. I have a rough what everything will look like in the end, but I try not to be too precious with that vision in case of curbing creativity.
What has been something that has inspired you?
The Hunterian Museum, at the Royal College of Surgeons. It's an anatomy museum, one of the best in Europe. It's a room the size of a gymnasium, containing cabinets filled with dissections and preserved body parts. My heart thumped the first time I went there: it's amazing to see all the collections - everything from deformed foetuses, to the skeletons of giants.
More lately, I’m inspired by the idea of futurism –an optimistic belief that personal and social fulfilment lies in the future.
What have you learned from being an intern at Gareth Pugh?
Work before glory - don’t ever kid yourself that you’re doing hard work, when you’re not. But if you’re putting in the work, you’ll get the payoff: even if it seems a long time coming.
I hope that wasn't too parent-like of me, but I’ve seen it, and I do believe it.
Who is your ideal wearer of your designs?
Someone who respects the past, and places hope in the future.
Do you wear your own designs?
I don’t really like to wear what I make. Not because I don’t like it, but because I’m not ready to give myself credit like that. There is plenty of stuff other designers are making right now, that I love.
That said, I have worn my designs twice before - once was for a Halloween party.
What's cause for occasion?
Central St Martins. The campus is over a century old: there's definitely a sense of occasion that first time you walk up the stairs and see all the names of past graduates in the hallway.
Tell us about the shoot for your first collection.
The shoot was fun: I used a bunch of my friends as models, and they were lovely to work with. I like working with friends because they feel comfortable around you: the appeal in your designs emerges more naturally. I guess the other advantage is that these people are easier to relate to than your 'typical' model. I am thankful for my beautiful friends.
What were your first designs like?
My first designs where very conservative and wearable, but in a not very refined way. I was just out of high school and my skills and knowledge were too basic then to be able to express myself. Things are more exciting now: thank you learning!
What was your favourite outfit from your youth?
My Michael Jordan basketball jersey (although I never wore it!)
What are your plans for the future?
Finish college and get a job, then maybe start my own company.
