On Tuesday, Spanish luxury house Loewe launched its first collections of made-to-measure clothing and bags. Like for other lines, British-born Stuart Vevers, previously creative director of Mulberry, was trusted to add some oomph into a rather grown-up service. The clothes that, as the name indicates, can be customized by the client, were both luxurious and understated: knitwear paired with fur, ostrich leather suits, suede trench coats worn with matching pencil skirts. As for the back, they come in an earth-toned palette, and made an equally daring use of leather. Dazed Digital talked to Stuart Vevers about what real luxury means today.
Dazed Digital: Why is it interesting to do a bespoke service?
Stuart Vevers: It’s really about getting the essence of Loewe. All the clothes are made by our own atelier in Barcelona, and it’s the best of what Loewe is. It’s not seasonal, we present it once a year. It’s amazing, star wardrobe pieces, indulgent leather and fur pieces.
DD: At the same time, it’s very simple pieces…
Stuart Vevers: It’s definitely what people come to Loewe for. It’s functional, it’s outerwear, but I hope there is still an element of dream, there is still an amazing colour palette, and that the unique thing about this service.
DD: So the customers can interfere with the designs – is it fun…or a little annoying?
Stuart Vevers: No, it’s not annoying! What’s chosen is between Napa leather and suede, then a colour palette to choose from. The stitch, design, lining is all chosen by the design team. It’s kind of fun really.
DD: What’s the most remarkable aspect of this collection?
Stuart Vevers: It’s new construction; it’s about challenging how the garments are made. For example today, if you make a garment that doesn’t have a lining – it makes it a very complex construction but at the same it makes it lightweight. It makes leather much more modern. Putting fur into a knitted base gives it an ease and a coolness, which is what I wanted to do.