Stefano Pilati's YSL vision for next season was one of a sparsely coloured utilitarian uniform look. The sleek aesthetic focused on blue and black colour combos, while also white and beige reined freely. Pilati's sharp tailoring was made edgy by teaming up jackets with either shorts or cargo trousers. Also the nylon fabric made the suits modern and spot on. Tie-less shirts or mesh tops glimpsed underneath, a black leather pea coat added a sudden dose of energy, and an R.A.F-esque cropped jacket managed to be both 1940s retro and Spring Summer 2012 up to date at the same time. A beige safari section and trench coats also fitted in with the (unofficial) army uniform theme. A few details - such as the laced-up string and red crocodile loafers - gave the collection another talking point. Not that it needed one.