Dries Van Noten Menswear S/S12

Technical fabrics including plastics and nylon were teamed with crisp white shirts and two-tone bombers this season

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Where to start? Is there anything this man can't do? Having gone all elegant and chic on us last season, Dries this time around embraced his sporty side and showed a collection of technical fabrics, plastic seams and functional clothes. Often teamed up with simple white shirts, we saw nylon shorts over wool trousers, oversized shirts and belted trench coats. As always it was the colour combos that impressed the most; subtle (but not always easy) black and navy pieces came out - most notably a bomber with a upper half in black nylon and a blue cotton bottom half - and two versions of a triple stripe (white/red/black and brown/beige/blue).

There were a few classic double breasted jackets in the collection, beige ones in a natural fabrics, but - in tune with his sporty theme - Dries also sent them down the catwalk with bonded seams in black plastic. Also cargo trousers, a survivor from A/W11, made an appearance, but it was the flowing nylon coats in yellow and burgundy that impressed the most. Multi-coloured stripes are also set to be a hit next summer, whether they come as shorts or trousers, but the best piece on Dries Van Noten's Spring Summer catwalk was a double breasted bomber jacket; not many designers can get away with one of those...

Dazed Digital: Congratulations, beautiful collection - what was the starting point?
Dries Van Noten:
I wanted to fuse - both literally and not so literally - the technology of sportswear and the elegance of sportswear!

DD: Yeah, there were a lot of what looked like plastic seams...
Dries Van Noten:
Yeah, that's the bonding that is normally on the inside of the garments. I put them on the outside to emphasise the structure of the pieces.

DD: What other fabrics did you use?
Dries Van Noten:
Satin and nylons that have a feminine side and I used them more in a masculine way this season. 

DD: Have you done such a sporty collection before?
Dries Van Noten:
We always have elements of it in collections but this time around we played around with it more, making them more visible.

DD: Do you have a fave piece from the show?
Dries Van Noten:
The yellow nylon parka with bonding! 

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