Italian shoe and accessory brand, Vic Matié produces unique contemporary pieces where at the heart of the brand's ethos is creativity and attention to detail - such as key features that make each pair of shoes or bag special. A part of the Marches footwear empire that was originally founded by Renato Curzi when he opened a small shoe firm called Linea Marche in the 70s, Vic Matié is now led by Curzi's daughter, Artistic Director Silvia Curzi. We speak to her about how she is steering the brand in a new direction whilst respecting the heritage and tradition of her father's legacy.
Dazed Digital: Why did you decide to design shoes and not clothes?
Silvia Curzi: I believe I was born with the inside passion for fashion in general, but, as my family has a shoes factory with a quite long story and going there since I was a child, my way naturally led into the footwear world.
DD: What do you think sets your footwear apart from other designers?
Silvia Curzi: The basic idea, around which the soul of Vic Matié goes, is the will of great aesthetic research and of high value considering a quality point of view (supported by the choice to produce only Made in Italy products and then to rely on the whole knowledge which the Italian footwear tradition can offer) with prices which, not necessarily, have to belong to the category of the super luxury accessories. In the same time I believe that our great research for creation of products, which remain always up to date sets our factory apart from the others, going beyond the short-lived fashion trends and the will of thinking about a product, which always refers to an international and multicultural context.
DD: What kind of woman do you design for?
Silvia Curzi: Each time I have to develop a new collection, I do not really think about a specific kind of woman but I always try to offer a particular vision of the fashion, of the woman's world in general and of the time evolution, changing day by day our attitude towards reality, keeping always in mind the soul and the brand style. I do not like to imagine categories to take inspiration from, also because today this would be very difficult; I would like that always more women and girls with different origins, culture and age could recognize themselves in my vision of the fashion and then they could choose to have a Vic Matié pair.
DD: How would you describe your A/W 11 collection?
Silvia Curzi: First of all, I think the Fall/Winter collection is really international. Even if I strongly believe in Made of Italy, I am convinced that nowadays aesthetics is influenced by a global culture. Moreover, I believe it can be considered as a no time collection, I mean that we have concentrated on lines and volumes of each shoe, to create always nice products, products of value going beyond the concept of the short-lived trends and seasons. I also think that it is a quite sophisticated collection not only from a manufacturing point of view , for its details, because also the most simple price conceals specific details of high value, but also from a style point of view, which is for sure more refined and outside all logic of an easy sale. Finally, I would like to point out the word “determined “, which is however a constant feature of the Vic Matié brand.
DD: Where are you looking for inspiration for next season?
Silvia Curzi: Inspiration is something which suddenly happens. When you start to think about a new collection, you are not looking at a precise direction. But I would say that it is a way, which constantly develops, along which you can see or feel things and sensations which give you thrills, that is a starting point to create new concepts. For the next summer collection however, I am tempted to a kind of primitive and tribal feeling to be matched with clean lines and minimal. Another concept, which appeals to me, is also the always less defined borderline between man and woman; therefore it will be interesting to remix some features to create fashion products which can go beyond the concept of the gender, without forgetting grace and gentleness as support which has always to be present, once you speak about women accessories .
DD: How do you see the brand developing in years to come?
Silvia Curzi: I think that “Made in Italy” concerning fashion is reserved for a small and perhaps medium niche market. I mean Italy cannot be the country of large-scale retails trade for fashion products, due to general economical reasons and also to the social /cultural context of our country. Consequently, I think Vic Matié will have to carve itself a quote in the market without aiming at figures, but creating and producing accessories of always higher value, not only from a design and style point of view, but also from a quality and refined manufacturing point of view coming only from the “know how” of the footwear tradition. I also believe in the concentration of the style research on manufacturing of beautiful and up to date shoes, but at the same time they have to go beyond each seasonal border; products to be preserved, to be worn again and again for years without the risk to be considered “out”.