Emilio de la Morena showed as part of a trio of designers that have all received New Gen support from Topshop this season and it was his collection that ultimately stood out. As a former sculpture student, Morena starts each collection based on sculpture and this season, it was Eduardo Paolozzi, whose work most notably graces the courtyard of the British Library, and in turn inspired Morena’s series of restrained and tightly fine-tuned dresses. “I wanted sexy sculpture and it felt like the right thing to do something very chic,” Morena stated. This collection seemed to mark a new phase in Morena’s work, affirmed by Roisin Murphy’s approval when she congratulated Morena after the show and expressed a hankering after a softly draped half-dress,half-jumpsuit creation. It was the tightly sculpted dresses, which were cleverly embellished with poppers and crystals and looked like the models had been sewn into them that really had women in the audience lusting.
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