Dazed Overdose Thurs 11th Sept: Robbie Spencer

G-Star raises awareness for the United Nations Millennium Campaign and Calvin Klein hit a high note Robbie.

Fashion Overdose
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After a mid-week slump of monotonous catwalk shows, one screamed for our attention and that was the Calvin Klein show yesterday. Slick, concise, and doing everything we know and love about Calvin Klein whilst embracing the future. The purist vision of Francisco Costa's Calvin Klein woman, echoed the nostalgia of the labels glamorous Studio 54-era beginnings but also injected something new. This time it was cubist origami dresses in the familiar muted pallet of cream, grey and bolts of cobalt blue, which unfolded down the catwalk, each one intricately detailed though beautifully restrained. Raquel Zimmerman bagged the key look of an asymmetrical electric blue mini dress with a front panel fold that looked like a pocket detail. The hair was in a tousled half bun, half pony tail; the kind of hair a girl has when she is cleaning the bathroom or putting her make on, which perfectly fitted in with this causal approach to minimal luxury design. One of the most enduring shows of the week by far.

Later on that evening Dutch denim label G-Star Raw held their show at the Park Avenue Armory, where Marc Jacobs had his earlier this week. Hosted by Alan Cumming and Heather Graham the show was themed around raising awareness of the United Nations Millennium Campaign to end poverty. Continuing with their play on the traditional rules of showing a catwalk collection, models fired out in groups of twos from every orifice in the wall, to be then placed on parts of the catwalk that were raised up and down depending on what look they were in. This must have taken ages to choreograph and it was interesting to see the traditional format of showing on a catwalk completely broken down. As for the collection, it was denim mania! Full look denim outfits from top to toe, and breaks of interesting techno fabric used on parkas and trench coats. Also an element of 1940's traditional golfing menswear came in the mix midway as well as some cyber space red carpet dresses; an eclectic mix of influences to entertain the troops.

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