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Dazed Overdose Tues 9th Sept: Katie Shillingford

Katie has found her red carpet options at Rodarte and Thom Browne plays a daring match of tennis in his collection.

Yesterday, I didn’t think that Marc Jacobs could be topped but today’s shows blew me away. Firstly at Rodarte, not swaying from their trait of pretty but gothic knitwear and interwoven web of eccentric but wearable dresses, the Mulleavy girls wowed the crowd at the S/S 09 show. Underneath the complex mohair web, flashes of S&M influences in black latex boob tubes, black leather gloves and slashed leather leggings all gave the show a darker edge. Nicholas Kirkwood shoes were towering, chunky, glitzy and punk in gold, blue and gothic black, all complete with clinking chains. The finale, which saw Kasia, Karlie and Jourdan in floor length swirls of multi coloured sunsets made a breathtaking end to this exquisite show - if I were famous I’d want to wear one of these gowns on the red carpet!

The other knockout of the day was Thom Browne who made it clear that he is pushing the most creative and brave fashion in New York. In a city where money reigns over innovation, Thom Browne seems to tick both boxes with an amazingly wearable and high quality sales collection and a menswear show that challenges Miuccia Prada. The venue was decked out in turf, ready for a tennis tournament and the tennis racket motif continued throughout the collection on shirts, socks and jackets. Extreme silhouettes where tutus pushed out tailored jackets gave the show Browne’s signature oddball twist. Other highlights included gender mixing floor-length and mini- wrap skirts (with only the skirt visible from the front- shorts from the back), and low-slung trousers that create a preppy, jock version of the rude boys in Hackney. Paisley was another key element within the collection in tailored suits, jumpsuits, skirts, floor length coats and an oversized print in knitwear. Again, an Americana theme was present with 4th of July, red, white and blue ribbons as tuxedo tails. The finale presented an impressive bride complete with white nail varnish.

Other perks to the day were Marc by Marc’s knotted fluro accessories, Halston’s re-created living room at the MOMA and elderflower cocktails with Edun on the mini rooftop.
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