Having worked for many years as head designer at Kenzo Homme, Tamburlaine Gorst brings back loose shapes and dark colours for his casual Autumn Winter '10 collection. Often influenced by military styles, Gorst adds a masculine ruggedness to traditional tailoring with thickly woven jackets and strong leather trenches. Dazed speak to the designer about his new A/W '10 collection and accompanying film.

Dazed Digital: Your latest collection looks back to skinheads in the 60s, have you ever been tempted to shave off all your hair?
Tamburlaine Gorst: I have gotten pretty close over the years but always stop short with a grade 1 at the sides and a grade 4 on top. Now that I'm over 40 I prefer to hold on to my hair!
 
DD: Why do you think texture is so important to clothing?
Tamburlaine Gorst: Texture is the physical structure of the fabric, yet it is also a vehicle for formality and informality, new and old, rough and smooth. Texture gives character, reflects light, holds colour, tells a story. For me texture goes hand-in-hand with garments that are lived-in which, to me, is how garments should be.


DD: Who is your ideal man to dress for?
Tamburlaine Gorst: I like the idea that my clothes are so timeless that they can be worn by anyone between the ages of 20-80. I am most pleased when someone older wears my clothes. I recently dressed John Hurt for an editorial and I think that is about as good as it gets. I would also like to dress David Bowie.
 

DD: What is the story behind the video?
Tamburlaine Gorst: I wanted to show the clothes moving, to literally bring the still shots we made to life. Then we thought it would be great to show them how they may actually be in the street... four mates having a laugh. Then we got thinking this needs music... so we made a track to go with it. It happened naturally at the shoot and grew instinctively. The aim was to capture the spirit of how the clothes look when worn and reveal their attitude through movement and also music.