The Japanese label Toga Archives has such a deft way with fabric that means if they kept on piling it on, it would only further enhance the pieces that it have created. Designer Yasuko Furuta has another meaning for toga other than the usual Grecian/Roman connontation which is “blessed robe" and for S/S 09, once again, she manages to incorporated a multitude of elements into one dress without it looking overworked or overwrought that makes her robes truly special. Trojans and phantoms have been past seasonal themes but there was a playfulness to this season what with Furuta looking to the stylings of a cowboy. No cheesy hats though and the boot gets recreated with charm studded buckles and is elevated with a platform to veer it away from looking like a costume. The richness that Toga brings to its garments can be seen yet again even for a season where layers are supposed to be shed. The mix of navy, deep scarlet, forest green peplums are contrasted with nudes bandeau tops. The little Old West frontier nods run throughout the collection almost trying not to be noticed and thus would never get called out as being overly thematic; decorative buckles and Mexican-inspired jewellery, bolo ties, fringing (most effectly used on the denim pieces) and a palette dominated by beige. The same techniques that Furata employs are still there though; the oversized pockets creating volume at hips, the twisted pleats and folds, the symmetrical preciseness in which everything is placed, hence why Toga's garments never seem too heavy.